• Food And Drink In China

• One of the highlights of visiting a country is often the food and drink. In China that is certainly true.

  What is Chinese food?

  China is a vast country and trying to define Chinese food is not easy. There are many Regional Styles, as we shall find out later, and it is perhaps easier to look at differences with western foods.

  For a start, eating in China is much more communal so food is served as a series of shared dishes. In the west we tend to have individual plates served with a small variety of items.

  These dishes tend to be cooked quickly, often with garlic, ginger, chilli, soy sauce and oil. Slow cooking methods such as roasting and boiling used in the west do exist but are used less frequently.

  The staple food throughout China is rice, though wheat flour is used for making steamed breads and dumplings and noodles. Rice can also be made into a flour, and is then used for rice noodles. Another form of rice is rice cake. These compressed blocks can be shredded to make another quick-frying base.

  The traditional meat in China is pork and virtually the whole pig can be used including the ears, tail and intestines. Chicken and duck are also popular; beef less so. The list of other creatures eaten is very long and not to be repeated here.

  Vegetables in China are much fresher and tastier than those found on most supermarket shelves in the west. There is also a lot more variety, including regional variations. It would be normal to eat at least one green vegetable with a meal. Many species of fungus are also eaten, not just the humble mushroom.

  Chinese meals tend not to have a distinct Dessert. Sweet dishes can be served at any time during a meal. A banquet could well end with a fruit platter or similar, to munch on whilst conversation continues. Regular meals tend to end abruptly with the last dish.

  A short History of Chinese food and drink

  Apparently there is evidence that rice was grown in the Yangtse River valley 7000 years ago. This would have been boiled but, again, there is evidence that some was fermented and turned into the style of rice wine (mi jiu) still popular today.

  Wheat did not arrive in China until quite late in its history so in the north, where it is too cold for rice, the staple food was millet made into a porridge.

  Pigs and chickens were the first animals farmed to provide protein. Sheep and cows arrived later, from the west like wheat.

  One early food found in China and not outside of its sphere of influence until modern times is tofu. This fermented soy bean product is thought to have been made even 3000 years ago.

  Tea is a drink long associated with China. This beverage was first discovered about 5000 years ago and its popularity never wanes.

  The Symbolism of Chinese Foods

  One feature not typical in the west is that Chinese food often has a symbolism. This is perhaps explained by the Chinese love of puns; others say it is because punishments were so severe that hidden meanings evolved to avoid speaking openly and thereby risking life and limb. This same style of symbolism is also found in Chinese art.

  Here are a few foodstuffs with their meanings explained:

  • Apples: The word for apple (pingguo) sounds like the word for 'peace' and so apples are considered an appropriate gift, in most cases. Unfortunately (as Chinese is full of homonyms) the same word also sounds like the word for 'illness' so you shouldn't give apples to a sick person. Complicated, isn't it;
  • Bananas: are associated with self discipline. Banana leaves are also important, being considered one of the Fourteen Precious Things; a long list that mixes Buddhist symbols with items useful to a traditional Chinese scholar;
  • Dates: If eaten with either chestnuts or lychees the word combination sounds similar to the phrase 'soon have sons'. That is a common wish in this Confucian society;
  • Peaches and pears: Anyone familiar with Journey to the West (or the Monkey King) will know that peaches are associated with longevity. Pears are also, and both make good gifts, especially when apples will not do;
  • Pomegranates: Given the number of seeds in these it is no great wonder that they are associated with fertility. No one seems to apply the converse to other seedless fruits!;
  • Carp: Carp are seen as a strong fish able to leap where other fish cannot. This gives rise to a connection with exams. Serving a carp would be wishing a candidate well in any forthcoming test;
  • Duck: Ducks are thought to pair for life and therefore represent marital fidelity. No wedding meal would be without duck in some form;
  • Eggs: As with many cultures, eggs represent fertility. One special Chinese tradition is to give out eggs painted red after a baby has been born – an odd number for a boy and an even number for a girl;
  • Fish: The word for fish sounds similar to the word for prosperity. As a special mark this dish is usually served last (of the quality dishes) with the head pointing to any favoured guest;
  • Noodles: Long thin noodles represent longevity. They are often served as a special birthday dish for the elderly. Tradition dictates that noodles should not be cut, even to make them easier to eat;
  • Seeds: All seeds represent fertility and a wish for many children. Seeds are to be seen everywhere, all day at a Chinese wedding; and
  • Walnuts: This is a particularly obscure one, being a reference to one very old story. Walnut symbolize flirtation. You have been warned.

  Regional Styles in China

  Regional styles are again gross generalizations. Almost every town can claim one or more special local dish. For the visitor it helps to have some idea just for interest's sake.

  Northern Style: This style is characterized by the use of wheat. Steamed buns (Baozi) and dumplings (Jiaozi) being two typical snacks. Wheat noodles are also popular particularly the hand-pulled ones made by Muslim vendors perhaps indicating their origin. Of course, with the Emperor's court in the north for so much of China's long history it is only to be expected that dishes popular there have found their way into local restaurants; Peking Duck being the most obvious example.

  Sichuan Style: Sichuan (aka Szechuan) style is noted for its spiciness. It is said that this heat drives out the pervading damp found throughout the province. The chilli is not native to China and, before its introduction, the strong flavour was produced by the local peppercorns.

  Shanghai Style: The people of the coastal provinces are said to like sweet foods to balance the saltiness of their seafood-rich diet. They don't try to push this further by claiming it also explains their predeliction for alcohol-flavoured dishes. Of all the seafood available the Hairy Crab is the most sought after. These cost hundreds of yuan each so eating them is definitely a sign of affluence, of face.

  Cantonese Style: Cantonese style makes use of a wide range of ingredients and aims for very delicate tastes. Strong tastes are often seen as a disguise and looked upon suspiciously. Fresh fish needs no such enhancements.

  Diversity is certainly a key word in the Cantonese kitchen. With an extensive coastline, the area is rich in its own seafood but, more importantly, open to trade. It is through trade that the locals have learnt to enjoy exotic foods. A Cantonese saying, "Any animal whose back faces the sun can be eaten", is often mocked in other parts of China. You may hear an expression further north along the lines, "The Cantonese will eat anything that flies except an aeroplane, and everything that has legs except the table."

  Other Styles: The above list isn't exhaustive. Just about every minority will have its own dishes, and there are over fifty of those. Some of the more notable ones are Anhui, Fujian, Hunan, Manchurian, Yunnan and Hui.

  Eating For Health

  Chinese food plays a more central role in daily life than in the west. Food is selected not just for fuel but largely to maintain a healthy life.

  Chinese metaphysics has Five Elements interacting in ways not dissimilar to the game rock, scissors, stone but much more complex. It is believed that these five must be kept in a state of balance (along with their two modifiers yin and yang) to maintain health. Sickness or disease is therefore associated with an imbalance and rectified by a compensatory move. You have already encountered some examples of this above during the descriptions of Sichuan and Shanghai Regional styles. The system goes further - much further- assigning each element to organs within the body and more.

  Regular meals have been a feature of Chinese dietary practice for a long time. An old Chinese adage says that one should eat like a King in the morning, as Common-folk at lunchtime and as a Beggar in the evening. This recognises that digestion is a slow process best completed before sleep.

  Cooking aids digestion and helps release certain nutrients. Cooking methods are therefore also vital to healthy eating. Quick cooking, the type prevalent in China due to a general shortage of fuel, also happens to be the method identified as best for most foodstuffs

  Milk and milk products are seen as baby foods in China; stuff to aid growth and development but largely unnecessary for a healthy adult. Milk does contain a relatively high percentage of fat and other sources of calcium are available. The Chinese prefer soy milk.

  Meat is seen as moving slowly through the digestive system giving it time to putrefy and upset the harmonious mix of bacteria in the gut. More than that, it is thought to cause additional work for the spleen, liver and kidneys. Fibre can help restore a balance – but eating a healthy amount of meat in the first place is considered preferable.

  In modern China many of these precepts are being forgotten. A banquet is always heavily loaded towards meat dishes as a sign of affluence. Fine when banquets are rare, but for today's business person these can be a daily occurrence – all washed down with an excess of alcohol. Children are now attracted to fast-food outlets with their excess of sweet and fried products. Obesity, almost unknown in the last generation is now on the rise. Maybe it is not just visitors to China who need to consider the wisdom of the ancients.

  Tips for Travellers

  Most restaurants will offer round tables capable of seating eight or more people, usually with a 'lazy Susan' rotating centre. This arrangement is ideal for group meals – which is the standard.

  On entering you will be asked how many people. If you have learnt some Useful Chinese then you can reply with the number, followed by wei (pronounced like the English word 'way').

  Many Chinese men will smoke heavily after a meal, and sometimes during. If you have a strong dislike of smoke try to sit well away from large groups of men.

  Spread yourselves out around the table and don't worry about the number of bowls at this stage. The waitresses should know to bring more or take excess away.

  It pays to have one person in-charge. If you are that person, try not to get trapped on an inside; unless you are fluent, you may need to stand up and point at things occasionally. A very useful tactic when all else fails is to head into the kitchen and start pointing at ingredients.

  Aim to order about one dish per person. If you don't have any special dietary requirements go for half meat, half veg and one staple (carbohydrate) mix. It is better to order more at first. This way you can see what types of food are popular.

  Expect tea to be served with the meal for free. Let the staff fill your cups. They will top these up periodically. Let them do so even if you don't want it. You can just leave a full cup rather than an empty one and everyone is happy. The tea would have been wasted in the pot anyway.

  Beer was introduced by the Germans and is quite light. It is also relatively cheap. Order this by the bottle and let the staff pour. No need to hog your own bottle.

  Wines are not so good. If you prefer wine then best experiment. Price is not always a good guide. Try Great Wall reds. White wine is rarely palatable.

  Bottled water will be available, as will a variety of soft drinks. Don't expect to find 'diet' versions even in major cities.

  Do not worry about the use of chopsticks. There is no right way' to hold these; look around any restaurant and you will see the locals using many different methods.

  Spoons are sometimes placed with dishes and these are intended for serving. It is acceptable, in most circles, to take food from the common plate with your chopsticks.

  It is quite normal to shout out to get a waiter or waitresses attention. If you are not comfortable with this then use a hand signal as otherwise you are likely to get very frustrated.

  Try to keep positive at all times. If one waiter/waitress doesn't understand a request you can expect another to come along and try shortly. Avoid getting angry. Remember, you are the stranger who hasn't grasped the language; the staff are at their normal place of work. The simpler you keep things the more likely you are to get what you want.

  Assuming the staff have done a good job then you can consider tipping. A tip need not be a set percentage of the bill.

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• Current Comments

  2 comments so far (post your own)

  This is certainly an issue you must consider seriously. The advice below is very general and not intended to help you decide; only to help you to know where to seek more qualified information.
  
  Allergies are not well understood in China and, even if you have a note written in characters to help explain your condition, you could find people unintentionally forgetting to mention peanut contents in dishes. For instance, peanut oil is widely used in cooking - but few waitresses would think to mention this. If your allergy is serious enough that the oil could trigger an attack then you need to be more prepared.
  
  It is best that you discuss the risks with your regular doctor who knows your condition and other aspects of your medical history. Together you can make an informed risk assessment and final decision about travel in China.
  
  If the decision is to travel then you should also then ask your doctor for some form of written statement that you can take to travel insurers to see what they can offer to cover the worst-case scenarios.
  
  Be prepared, be safe - and we hope you do get to enjoy this fascinating country.

  Posted by China Journeys on Sun 4 Dec, 2011

  I have a severe peanut allergy. Is this likely to be a problem in China

  Posted by Beth on Sun 4 Dec, 2011

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