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Gansu Province is a geographic anomaly. As a fertile strip squeezed between desert and mountains it provides the only viable land route between the east of China and the west. Without it there would have been no ancient silk roads.
Much of the character of Gansu is derived from its links with the ancient Silk Roads. Its crops, its architecture, even place names are all heavily influenced by the peoples who settled or passed through the region during its long history. One of the most obvious influences is religion. In the early years of the first millenium Buddhism was in the ascendancy in the region and many of the Grottoes carved out during that period still exist even if the statues and frescoes do not - for one reason or another. The rise of Islam in the region during the second millenium has also left its mark both in the people and in their way of life.
Gansu used to be an extremely poor province with many of the inhabitants at subsistence level only. Even now it is one of the poorest provinces in China. Lanzhou, the provincial capital, has some industry and both mining and power generation have been developed through funding from the central government. Attempts have also been made to make more of the land productive. One scheme to bring excess water from neighbouring Qinghai Province took 20 years to complete but now provides water for one third of a million people. Other schemes include water conservation and afforestation.
Lanzhou itself is not an interesting city though it does have a good museum. It is a convenient gateway for many travellers especially those following the route of the ancient Silk Roads overland west from Xi'an and as an airport hub. Outside of the city you may be able to visit Bingling Temple, though this does depend upon the season.
Most tourist fly in - usually to either Dunhuang (Airport code: DNH) or to Jiayuguan (Airport code: JGN). Others arrive by train - there being a main line from the east all the way to Kashgar. Dunhuang is most famous for its Mogao Grottoes; Jiayuguan for its fort which guards the pass marking the end of the Great Wall of China.
Other worthwhile stops if you have time include Tianshui, Wuwei and Zhangye. Jiuquan can be visited from Jiayuguan.
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Current Comments
4 comments so far (post your own)Adam
Most of the trains are 'passing' and therefore it is difficult to get tickets, especially for only short sections.
Buses offer far more flexibility so you would do well to get some practice with relevant phrases for buying tickets. Try to go prepared with your destination written out in characters at least.
Posted by China Journeys on Wed 2 May, 2012
I want to follow the line of the old Silk Road through the Hexi Corridor. Are trains or buses better?
Posted by Adam on Wed 2 May, 2012
Hi Georgina
China is generally a safe place to travel, and Gansu is no exception.
You need only abide by normal traveller's sense: try to avoid going to quiet places alone especially after dark and don't try to be too clever with transport and accommodation. Stick with public transport and recommended places to stay.
Wherever you go you should be registered with the PSB by your hostel/hotel. One of their duties is to ensure the safety of foreigners - but they can only do so if they know that you are in their patch.
In the unlikely event that a situation does occur then the best thing to do is to be very loud and get locals involved. Local ladies will often recognise the threat and deal with it most efficiently.
Posted by China Journeys on Wed 15 Feb, 2012
How easy is it for a single, female traveller to visit this area?
Posted by Georgina on Wed 15 Feb, 2012