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Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region is China's largest province - with about one sixth of the total land mass. The much feared Taklamakan Desert and major mountain ranges along the borders are not habitable though, and the total population does not quite reach 20 million.
The Western Regions, the old name for Xinjiang (which translates as New Frontiers) were incorporated into Chinese territory in the Han Dynasty about 1800 years ago. Control has not been continuous with many attempts by local rulers to set up independent states but none successfully for any length of time.
The importance of the region was huge in the early years. Explorations here opened up what we now know as the ancient Silk Roads and trade with the west. Other benefits include increased knowledge of the world and its key players oustside of China, and exposure to new ideas in technology, medicine and philosophy.
Xinjiang is named as the Uyghur Autonomous Region as they are the largest minority group but in fact there are many other minorities living in the province including representatives from many bordering countries. There are Kazakhs, Kyrgyz, Tajiks, Mongols and Russians as well as anomalies such as the Xibo who originated in north-eastern China (Manchuria).
Xinjiang is best visited in the Autumn. Summer is too hot and winter far too cold for most. Spring can be good but unpredictable dust-storms can prevent all forms of transport for days on end. Autumn is not only pleasant in terms of weather; this is also harvest time with a huge range of exotic fruits freshly picked to delight your tastebuds.
The provincial capital Urumqi (Wulumuqi in pinyin. Airport code: URC) is the transport hub for Xinjiang, especially for air travel. There is one train route that follows the route of the northern Silk Road across the top of the Tarim Basin and Taklamakan Desert. This connects Kashgar in the furthest corner of China with the east and will soon reach Khotan along the southern branch of the Silk Road. The new Provincial Museum in Urumqi is absolutely unmissable with amazing artefacts and mummies (unlike in Egypt, these were preserved naturally in the dry desert conditions) dating back thousands of years.
There are many options for excursions outside of Urumqi. Two of the more popular ones are to Tian Chi (Heavenly Lake) and Baiyanggou (White Poplar Gully). The former is a stunning lake high up in the mountains; the latter a summer grazing ground for Kazakhs where you can ride a horse up into the Tian Shan. It is possible to stay overnight in a yurt at either site.
Turfan (
Kashgar, in particular its Kashgar Sunday Market, is next on most visitor's lists. There is much else to see and do in Kashgar including visits to the Old City, the Id Kah Mosque, the Tomb of Apak Hodja and excursions further afield such as to Karakul (Black Lake) up in the Pamir Mountains or to Yarkand (
Other stops are possible for those with time. Kuqa (
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