• Zhangye

• Name in Chinese characters: 张掖市
• Name in Pinyin: Zhāngyè Shì
• Status: Prefecture-level city

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  Zhangye is a little-known city at one of the narrowest points along the Gansu Corridor. It used to be an essential stop along the ancient Silk Road and a vital garrison town. However, with modern forms of transport it is largely bypassed and forgotten. In some ways this adds to the interest - being a more realistic look at life in the region.

  Travel

  Zhangye does not have an airport. It does have a railway station and is served by the main Xi'an to Kashgar services. Highway 312 parallels the railway and it is sometimes a good option to drive to Zhangye, especially for shorter journeys such as from Wuwei or Jiuquan.

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  Attractions For Visitors

  Zhangye has been a stopover for many famous characters throughout history and should play a more prominent role in tourism but there is a neglected feel about the place, with many sites only now receiving the attention they deserve. It is thought that the great Khublai Khan was born in Zhangye, probably at the Dafo Si (below). Marco Polo also records being held in Zhangye for a year awaiting permission to continue.

  Dafo Si (Giant Buddha Temple):

  

  This temple complex is one of the best kept secrets of the ancient Silk Roads route. The big Buddha which gives it its name is said to be the largest clay reclining Buddha statue anywhere. Size is not important but for the visitor the attraction is the ambience. The expression on this statue's face is particularly peaceful, a perfect interpretation of Sakyamuni departing this world and entering the state of nirvana.

  

  On the screen behind the main statue there are some ancient frescoes depicting scenes that show a small group of pilgrims fighting demons. Nothing strange in this except that the figure carrying the bags clearly looks like a pig. Some might be reminded of the Chinese classic Journey To The West (aka Monkey King). Perhaps - but the picture pre-dates even that. Is this, perhaps, an artwork that inspired the book. Probably not given its location; more likely it is evidence that the storyline was well-known even before being compiled into the full novel.

  Wooden Pagoda

  This small tower to one side of the main square is ancient; some sources say that it was constructed in 582, though it is unlikely that the original has survived intact. The higher levels give an interesting view out across the town, though modern developments now restrict the views.

  Bell and Drum Tower

  This tower at the centre of town is said to be the largest in the Hexi Corridor and is well preserved. The massive brick foundation is topped by a three-storey pavilion. Inside, there is a highly-decorated and massive bell which would have been used to keep time and to warn of fire or other emergency.

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  Excursions further afield can take you to:

  Mati Si (Horse Hoof Monastery)

  

  These Buddhist Grottoes, along with the Jin Ta (Golden Pagoda), up in the Qilian Mountains were damaged during the cultural revolution but are still impressive. Only some of the caves have been re-opened to the public. Of these, some are at ground level and accessible to all. The ones inside the cliffs are approached by poorly lit and steep passages and so require something of an adventurous spirit. The effort is worthwhile as the special nature of these caves becomes apparent only once inside. How could anyone fail to be inspired by nature with such gorgeous views?

  Mati Si is not on any major tourist trail and so it is currently only posssible to reach it as part of a tour or with a private vehicle. The drive takes about one hour.

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  The following China Journey includes a stay in Zhangye:

  • Land Of The Setting Sun
  
  
  
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• Current Comments

  2 comments so far (post your own)

  Hi Max
  
  The information on this site is constantly being added to and updated. We hope to get back to Zhangye in the near future and add detail to the sites as well as some of our own photos.
  
  You can check back again in a month or so or, if you need to know sooner, drop us an email explaining your main interests.

  Posted by China Journeys on Fri 27 Jan, 2012

  This looks interesting ... but unfinished. Are you going to add more?

  Posted by Max on Fri 27 Jan, 2012

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